The Beat Cop’s Guide to Chicago’s Best Italian Beef

Thanks to our fans on Facebook for providing such enthusiastic responses to my casual question about who’s got the best Italian beef sandwich in Chicago. There were so many comments, I had to write about it.—Chris “The Bull” Garlington

Dave can tell you: even after living in Chicago ten years, I did not know Italian beef sandwiches were invented in Chicago. I thought they were, well, Italian, kapisch? When we were writing a sidebar for our book that listed all the great foods invented in the Windy City, I argued for a good half an hour that Italian beef sandwiches were from the papal boot. Allow me to state publicly: Dave, you were right and I was wrong.

The Italian Beef sandwich is as Chicago as Al Capone; that’s an argument that’s been put to bed. Who makes the best Italian beef sandwiches in town? That’s an argument that will last forever. Until then, our fans have weighed in, gone a couple of rounds, and come up with a list of the best places to get a real, authentic, original, classic Chicago Italian beef sandwich.

However; in order for this to make sense, a definition:

  1. An Italian beef sandwich is: a crispy, split, Italian bun, over-filled with a wad of spiced, marinated, slow-cooked beef sliced paper-thin, drunk in it’s own au jus. Green or hot peppers mixed into the meat is a typical option. An Italian beef sandwich should be served with so much gravy the customer is forced into making a critical split second decision: should I pick it up, or eat it with a spoon?
  2. Cheese is optional. However, should you choose cheese, choose wisely: Smoked Gouda, Havarti, Osu Eraty, Pepper Jack, and Cheddar are all nice in their places but their place is NOT melted onto an Italian. Provolone, pal, and only provolone. Mozzarella in a pinch—and don’t admit it.
  3. Asiago dusted olive embedded artisan breads are cute when you’re on a date but using it to dress up an Italian it’s like wearing a tuxedo to a baseball game. Cheap bread. Local, sure—but cheap with crispy, crackly, crumbs exploding in all directions: a soaking-up-gravy-like-a-^%$#@!-sponge white bread. No substitutes!

That’s an Italian sandwich. We’ll post a review each day for a week until we reveal the number 1 Italian beef joint in the City of Big Shoulders.

And then you can argue.

The Curragh: Not the Best Ribs in Chicago

The Curragh Irish Pub

Edison Park
6703 N Northwest Hwy
Chicago, IL 60631
(773) 774–6170
www.curraghirishpub.com

Rarely do I go to a place where I don’t like the food. That’s usually because I go to places that are recommended by people I trust, and also because I’m not a very picky eater.

I have to say though, that I ate at the Curragh on Northwest Highway in Chicago last week, and I was disappointed. I had ribs, which were tough and had a thin, sickly sweet sauce that just wasn’t as good as I thought it should be. Also, the slab was small.

Part of the reason I thought this would be a good place to eat was that I drank there a lot last summer, and it is a beutiful bar. Which goes to show that drinking and restaurants are like drinking and women, don’t go by what you see after you’ve had a few.

House of Sushi and Noodles

1610 W. Belmont Ave
Chicago, IL 60657
773-935-9110

My hippy friend and I were starving. We’d been at Powell’s for two hours after a long day with no lunch. I was so hungry I fell face first into a Eudora Welty collection and nearly broke my nose. So we paid for our books, bolted, and I demanded Thai food.

I plugged Thai into the batmobile and it told us were were practically standing inside the Red Pepper Thai restaurant. But the flood of street renovations lately has made the city directionally challenged so even though our GPS said we were parked IN THE DINING ROOM OF THE RED PEPPER THAI restaurant we couldn’t see it.

While were were looking for the RPT, we saw a sign for Sushi and Thai, parked, walked up to the door, and found it closed. Things were not shaping up for a good night. I was slipping into a coma when my hippy friend pointed to the House of Sushi and Noodles on the corner of Belmont and drove past the House of Sushi and Lincoln.

I’ve heard stories about how in Japan, politeness is like a religion. At the House of Sushi and Noodles (HOSAN), you get an idea of what that’s like. A gentleman opened the door for us and greeted us like we were rock stars. The sushi chefs looked up from dissecting tuna and said hello. The seven or eight extremely attractive Japanese waitresses all smiled and said hello and welcome and thank you for coming and practically reached out and stroked the hem of our garments. I felt like Jesus. I felt like Corey Haim. I felt like a celebrity.

Then we sit down and the menu says there’s a buffet. A sushi buffet. Now the HOSAN is narrow. The Sushi kitchen is the size of a large closet with the rest of the
place devoted to a warren of booths. I checked myself and I knew there was no buffet in that place.

Apparently, buffet, in Japanese, means, WE WILL BRING IT TO YOU, which, I’m pretty sure, is NOT what buffet means anywhere else.

For $15.95, you can order two sushi dishes at a time which the waitress then brings to your table. That’s my kind of buffet.

Here’s what we had:

Mango Tango Maki: Unagi Tempura, Mango, Cucumber. Delicious. I’m sure other sushi places do mango sushi but I’ve never had it. It’s deliciously counterintuitive. Like the addition of strawberry, you don’t expect mago to work but it does. It’s delicious.

North Carolina Maki: Sweet Potato Tempura with Crunch Batter, Cream Cheese, Green Onion, Unagi Sauce with Mayo, Crunch Batter. Sweet potato? Just get over your preconceptions about weird maki rolls and eat this stuff. It’s crazy good.

But the best, the very best, is the Chicago Crazy Maki: Tuna, Yellow Tail, Salmon, Crab with Lettuce, Masago, Cucumber. Gorgeously presented, super fresh. with the tuna cut so correctly. Some sushi places try too hard to please the fat-assed American palette and make their tuna slices too thick. Tuna shashimi can’t be thick, can’t bee too thin. Too thick and you become distressingly aware that you are eating raw fish. Too thin and the slice disappears before you can properly appreciate it. HOSAN cuts their tuna as if their custom fit for my snobby attitude about it. They’re perfect. The pieces melt in your mouth.

The weirdest maki roll I’ve ever had, I confess, I can’t remember the name of it. I feel like an idiot. I should’ve stolen the menu! It’s salmon, strawberry, cucumber maki. As soon as I saw strawberry I had to have it. I have an affliction that compels me to eat any food I’ve never had before (within reason) and a weird strawberry maki roll is right up my alley. Don’t worry about the name. It’s the only maki on the menu with strawberry in it. Order it. Order it twice. It’s that good.

In all, my hippy friend and I walked out with our guts about to bust, filled to the brim with great sushi, for less than forty bucks and that includes the beer.

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Tweet Cop . . .

  • Chris sitting in the green room, waiting to go on the Johnny B show. WGN am 720. http://t.co/dKFpBuvg 1 week ago
  • Tomorrow morning, Chris and Dave will discuss "The Beat Cop's Guide to Chicago Eats" with Johnny B on WGN am 720, just after 7:15 am. 1 week ago
  • Chris and Dave will be on with Johnny B, WGN am 720 this Friday, between 6 & 9 am, talking food and our day with wild librarians! 1 week ago
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